BY LAURENT D’ENTREMONT
Recently, when Doris Amirault phoned me to say her husband, Daryl, was planning a trip to Seal Island with their lobster boat, “Bailey Marie,” and a crew of about 25 local tourists, including children, I was quick to add my name to the list.
After an absence of 34 years, I just had to visit the island. The last time I had been there was as a census taker with Mike McDonough, the Yarmouth census commissioner during the big census of June 1976. Some of the islands, including Seal, fell in his district. During that trip, we had interviewed 87-year-old Winnifred Crowell Hamilton, whose family roots ran deep on Seal Island. (Mrs. Hamilton, who lived on the island for 93 years, died in February of 1982.)
This historical island is situated about 14 miles southwest of my Yarmouth County home, and the island is no stranger to many of our Annapolis Valley readers - especially those who spend a lot of their time birding. This sometimes includes students from Valley universities who work on special projects while living their summers on the island. Veteran renowned birder, the late Robie W.Tufts of Wolfville, devoted lots of time to the Yarmouth County island and wrote about it in many of his books.
For a bit of history: 400 years ago, in 1604 to be exact, French explorer Samuel de Champlain and his entourage, on their way to Isle Sainte Croix, Port Royal and world history; visited the place and saw hundred of seals. They named it Isles Aux Loup Marins (Seal Island). The first French sailors were impressed by the beauty of the place- the abundance of fish, seals, game birds- plus the charm of the surrounding islands. Seal, about four or five miles long, is the biggest of this island group; the others are Mud, Flat, Round and Nuddy - very descriptive names. Collectively, they are known as the Seal Islands by writers, tourists and fishermen. They are an extension of the Tusket Islands.
Some fishermen from Shelburne County still have homes on the island and live there during the lobster season. A small community exist there, with several dozens houses, fish sheds - or shanties, a big lighthouse with a beam that can be seen for miles; they even have a church, which has survived many storms. At one time they had a small general store, post office and a school. There are lots of sheep running wild on the island, and legend has it they were put there many years ago stranded sailors would not die of starvation, as early shipwrecked victims had done.
Unlike sailors of days gone by, our group in a modern boat made it to the island in less than two hours. There were two reasons why I wanted to visit this island. I had enjoyed my earlier visit as a census taker and always felt I should return to see what changes had transpired during the last 30 years. The second reason was my grandfather had fished east, west and at both ends of Seal Island during the days of sail, and had told stories about it a hundred times or more.
We landed on the west side of the island and, from the boat, we could see most of the community, houses scattered here and there; fish sheds and the Seal Island Church situated on higher ground. A few people could be seen going about their business, sheep were still running loose (same as last time I was there). Vegetables gardens had fenced enclosures to keep the animals away.
The properties were well kept, but what impressed me most was the little church had been completely restored; fundraising, donations and a bit of government money had paid for the work. The church, with a tall steeple, was built many years ago with money raised by Caroline Crowell (Mrs. Hamilton’s mother). This was accomplished the old fashion way: quilting bees, community suppers, donations etc. They never had a resident minister; services, including Sunday school, were conducted by mainland preachers who often visited the island community.
Our group spent three hours on the island. We walked the length of the community- about a mile or more- visited the light station, the kids had fun on the sandy beach - and it was a learning experience for all of us. I hope to return, but I can no longer afford to wait another 34 years.
